My travels in Vietnam all culminated in my ride into the surrounding villages near to the Vedana Resort along the central coast of Vietnam. In rural Vietnam both scooters (predominate form of transport) and bicycles are the best ways to get around.
After staying at the Vedana Resort and taking day trips with my driver Duong I felt like I was missing out on opportunities to see the real Vietnam, and so I decided to take my camera and borrow a bike from the resort and go explore the local villages.
As I rode toward the main gate, the guard on duty had a puzzled look on his face and was unsure what he should do with a westerner on a bike riding toward him. As I pedalled by the look of confusion turn to horror as I rode around the gate and out into the countryside.
I had no map, nor did I have a phone with reception just a sense of adventure…
Clearly, this was a recipe for disaster!
Turning off the dirt road that led to the resort I pedalled toward the nearby rice bund that separated the fields of rice. As I made my way along the narrow path, I observed farmers in knee to thigh deep water doubled over planting rice stalks into the water.
As well, groups of buffaloes meandered along the edge of the nearby jungle, with the calves following their mothers and stopping to graze from time to time. An idyllic scene if ever there was one.
Time stood still as I dismounted my bike and took the scene all in. One of the farmers, noticing me on top of the nearby paddy bund stood up and waved and shouted a greeting accompanied by a broad smile. I have to admit everyone I met in Vietnam was friendly and warm.
After a short break and a few photos, I continued pedalling along the bunds, until I came to the entrance to a village that had seen better days. However, there was one old French building on the dusty main street that looked like it may have be the areas administrative office at one time.
The narrow streets were full of families sitting out chatting and eating, with the kids playing at the side of the road. As I rode by people waved, smiled and said hello with the little ones running beside my bike chanting hello and waving to me. There were a couple of narrow escapes as I had to swerve several times so as not to run over one of the children running beside me.
Continuing on, I noticed an old man standing in the middle of the road ahead of me and gestured for me to stop. Perhaps I’d broken some local village rule, or maybe inadvertently had offended him in some way as I slowed to a stop in front of the man.
As I approached, he smiled broadly to show his one remaining tooth and pointed to my back wheel. As I turned I realized that I had been riding with the kickstand down, with that he bent down and pushed it up for me. He then turned, toward me and slapped me hard on the shoulder and belly laughed out loud as he then shuffled off.
I’m sure he thought I was a complete idiot riding a bike with the kick stand down…
Leaving the village, I noticed a set of broad stairs leading up a steep incline to a hill. On top I could see the Vietnamese flag, and of course my curiosity got the best of me as I parked my bike by the side of the road and climbed the steep staircase.
As I neared the top, I realized that this was a military cemetery. As I walked around the rows of stones, I noticed that although the words were in Vietnamese the years were not and noted that each of the grave markers referenced a soul who had died during the Imperialist Wars (1946 – 1973).
Sadly, many of these graves showed that those who had died were often quite young, mostly in their late teens or early 20’s… Such a loss for the local villages.
I continued my exploration of the local villages and was always met with warmth and smiles from everyone whom I encountered.
After finding my way back to the resort I ran into Thanh at the restaurant, she asked me how my day had been and I related the story of bicycling into the local villages. As I told her about my stories from the ride there was a look of total shock and surprise on her face. I realized then that very few guests ventured off the resort especially without an interpreter or someone local to show them around.
Thinking back to my bike ride through the local villages it was one of the high points of my trip, and it gave me a new appreciation and perspective for rural Vietnam, its physical beauty and the warmth and friendliness of its people have been impossible to forget.
My advice is if you have the opportunity to go to Vietnam – take it.
However, don’t stay in the big cities too long (Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city) are great, but they give you a false impression of the simple wonders and natural beauty that lay just outside the cities.
Until next week.
Ciao!