I’ve travelled extensively in the US during my time living in Canada, but a lot has changed and now many of these adventures are just fading memories…
Nothing is forever, and so everything around us continues to evolve and flex. Admittedly, I’m sad to see what’s happening to this beautiful country and amount of turmoil and unrest that it’s navigating currently.
I wrote the following article back in 2015 for a Travel Journal and after re-reading it this week made me feel nostalgic for one of my favourite US cities – New Orleans.
Over the years something kept pulling me back to New Orleans, perhaps it was the grittiness, but also the incredibly friendly locals and the vibrant and eclectic nature of the city and its history. I hope you enjoy the read…
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This past year I’ve spent several weeks exploring New Orleans, and although I’d visited in the past, albeit for fleeting and work-related visits this year I wanted to make a concerted effort spending more time to discover the soul of the city.
Not only is it a home to Mardi Gras, Jazz, Bourbon Street and the world-renowned French Quarter, it has a deeply passionate, fiercely loyal and eclectic local community. A fact that surprised me was that New Orleans has one of the fastest growing populations in North America, with the vast majority of new inhabitants being under 40. It’s in the middle of a major rejuvenation with lots of jobs, reasonably priced housing and a completely redeveloped infrastructure. It’s a happening place!
Like all large urban centres, it has its good measure of suburban sprawl, but I made my home base adjacent to downtown, hired a car and toured around exploring the various neighbourhoods, uncovering amazing little places to eat (yes, mostly eat because New Orleans has some of the most interesting food combinations and tastes in North America). A veritable explosion of tastes…and that’s just in one bite!
As you know my favorite time of the day is sunrise and sunset, so I’m sure it comes as no surprise that I was always up before dawn so I could catch the beauty of the sun as it paints the morning sky. Of course, after that I am always famished and so generally looking for an amazing place for breakfast.
Indelible Tip #1: For the best breakfast experience in New Orleans – The Camellia Grill (626 S Carrollton Ave), although you’ll need to take either the streetcar (St Charles Ave streetcar – west to the turn at S Carrollton), taxi or hire a car for the 20 min commute from the French Quarter. Not only is the breakfast amazing, but the décor and the staff are throwbacks to the original diner experience of the 1940’s. Trust me – it’s worth the trip!
Strangely, many of my experiences center around eating…yes, just figuring that out now as I reflect on my trips to New Orleans – I guess I’ll need to keep working out!
The other great, and off the beaten track experience I had was lunch at the Parkway Bakery & Tavern (538 Hagen Avenue), originally opened in 1911 it’s been the cornerstone of the local community ever since. I have to say that I had the best Po’boy sandwich in the city, try the Golden Fried Shrimp. This local haunt is a definite “must see” on any trip to New Orleans.
One thing that struck me was the beautiful architecture and grandeur of the homes in the Garden District. This part of town is west of the French Quarter and as the name suggests is the most scenic and picturesque part of the city. Take the St Charles Ave streetcar, get off at Washington Avenue then explore.
In fact, one of the highlights of my visits was to go check out the cemeteries…yes, okay that does sound a little macabre now that I say it out loud to myself as I write, but as with most cities you can uncover some of the soul of the city by walking the rows of headstones, or in the case of New Orleans the mausoleums that line the paths.
A lot of history is captured and often some unique and unusual memorials help shape your mental picture of the city, especially like New Orleans because of its rich and diverse background and history.
I can hear you asking why mausoleums and not regular graves…great question! Actually, it’s because the city of New Orleans should be under water. The water table is just inches below the surface of the ground and therefore impossible to dig a grave without finding yourself in a man-made pond.
Indelible Tip #2: After getting off the streetcar at St Charles and Washington check out the Lafayette Cemetery No.1 (1400 Washington Ave) located south of St Charles Avenue. This treasure was established in 1833 and has some amazing architecture and mausoleum designs, and best part is that just by walking and reading it’s like walking through history of this mysterious and sultry city.
Like with many cities I visit, I tend to shy away from the touristy parts of the city and look for the authentic experiences that make the city or location unique although I must admit the French Quarter has its charm, particularly the architecture!
Indelible Tip #3: One of the other cool places I discovered was Algiers. No, not the one in North Africa, although it is on my list of places I’d like to explore. Algiers is the community directly across the Mississippi river from the city of New Orleans, a mere 10-minute ferry ride from the foot of Canal Street for the cost of $1.00. For those history buffs out there, the Algiers ferry is the longest continuously operating ferry service in North America and has been in operation since 1827…
Algiers has a long and storied past, established in 1719, which makes it one of the oldest neighbourhoods in the city of New Orleans it’s been a number of things over the almost three hundred years including a major slave trading depot, original home for the Cajuns when that were expelled from Nova Scotia by the British, a Powder magazine for the local militia and the main slaughterhouse to feed the population of New Orleans.
These days it’s a quiet and quaint neighbourhood that is in the middle of rejuvenation with little gift shops, galleries and boutiques sprouting up. When talking to one of the shopkeepers it’s clear that they have a strong and vibrant local culture and are proud to call Algiers home. Check out the cool architecture of the Courthouse adjacent to the Ferry terminal.
It was wonderful to escape the hustle and bustle of the downtown area to sit by the river and contemplate life. Although it was a little disconcerting to watch the large container ships pass by within 100 meters of you as they chugged by, and throwing up some serious wake.
Over the course of my visits to New Orleans I toured much of the city, and uncovered a host of amazing gems that locals had either told me about or I discovered as I explored.
I will always love the “big easy”.
Until next week.
Ciao!
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