As you’ll know from some of my prior essays where I’ve explored parts less travelled it’s always my curiosity driving my thirst for adventure. It’s like a self-fulfilling prophecy of constantly seeking exotic adventures – sometimes good, sometimes less so…
In fact, some of these adventures have also included some level of danger…
One of my most memorable adventures includes catching an early morning flight to Eilat from Tel Aviv in Israel and crossing the frontier into Jordan before catching a bus to Petra. The flight was the easy part …
Once I arrived at the border crossing into Jordan, I had to pay bribes to both the Israeli’s and the Jordanian officials at each end of the 400 meter no-man’s land between the two countries to exit and enter safely. The $50 USD bribe on each end was unplanned but given that I’d come this far I couldn’t just turn around.
However, once I paid my bribe to the Israeli’s I had to now navigate a high fenced razor wire corridor between the two countries knowing that I had snipers and machine guns trained on me from either end. Yeah, I felt incredibly naked out there and as you’d expect tried to hustle my way through without actually running.
No mean feat only to be confronted with the Jordanian army official asking for a “special” entry fee on top of the normal fee. Yep, shaken down once again…
Now you may think I’m exaggerating or that it couldn’t be as lawless as I’m making it sound, but actually I’m playing it down. As no sooner than you exit the frontier into Jordan, we were faced with an extremely large military force eyeing our bus suspiciously as we exited the border checkpoint area.
Even as we made our way along the road to Petra, we were constantly stopping for military checkpoints in which soldiers entered the bus and demanded passports. Yes, the experience getting to Petra was very intimidating.
However, once we got to the ancient city of Petra all of my travel issues faded from my mind as the ancient city of Petra opened up before me. I marvelled as I stood before some of the most incredible buildings within the ancient world.
Knowing that these buildings were carved from the stone canyons was even more astounding. As an example, the Treasury building, albeit the most famous face of Petra is truly one of the beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen.
The craftsmanship and attention to detail is incredible, particularly knowing that they didn’t have the technology or equipment we have today, but in reality, tools from the stone age, yet here the carvings are so intricate and detailed that it makes it hard to believe the craftsmanship of the time.
My day spent exploring Petra and the breadth of the once bustling city lives in my memory as if it were yesterday… The remainder of my trip to Petra was uneventful other than the expected shake downs during my border crossing back into Israel.
As you can imagine, an adventure like this left me feeling like I was in an Indiana Jones movie, and although exhausted from my long day I felt exhilarated.
This was by no means my last adventure in Israel as I took a bus the next day to explore the ancient port city of Caesarea, situated about halfway between Tel Aviv and Haifa. The ruins are spread out over a large area and includes an intact aqueduct, palace foundations and harbour.
Indeed, they also had a camel market, although this is clearly meant for tourists and as you’d expect only sold cheap trinkets and the like. I preferred to wander, but wandering in Israel is well let’s say a no-no. Unless you’re going from one place to another, or with an organized tour there is a lot of scrutiny especially if you’re clearly not a local.
Even when I caught a taxi on the sabbath (Saturday in Israel) I wasn’t allowed to sit in the back of the taxi. The driver made it clear that unless I sat next to him, he wasn’t willing to take me anywhere. I don’t think he took his eyes off me for the entire journey, and I could palpably feel his unease driving me.
In fact, walking outside the general tourist areas anywhere in Israel’s major cities is both intimidating for you as you’re often stopped and questioned by the military or eyed warily by the local population.
So much history to see and digest, but at the same time you definitely feel that you’re unwelcome in many respects. Perhaps if I was with a tour group it may have been different, but as you know from my essays I prefer to travel independently and let my curiosity guide me.
Admittedly, I’ve had some rather unique experiences throughout my travels, but I also realize this type of travel is not for everyone.
Until next week
Ciao!
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